Leandro Rodriguez

I’ve spent my entire life in Nazaré, Portugal, where the sea has always dictated our days. My father was a fisherman, and so was I, though my heart was never truly in it. I found solace in photography, capturing the rugged beauty of the waves and our small town. One winter, a foreign surfer came across my photos, captivated by the towering waves below the São Miguel Acanjo fortress. I took him to see them, and he was in awe. He returned with a team to surf those waves, and I was there to document it. The photos we took went global, and soon our quiet town became a haven for surfers and tourists alike.

Nazaré changed quickly. What was once a sleepy village became alive with the buzz of visitors, even in the off-season. Surfers chased the monstrous waves that had been a secret to all but us locals, and the town, with its narrow streets and old-world charm, became a bustling hub of excitement. My photographs had played a part in this transformation, and I couldn’t help but feel a swell of pride. The waves, once just part of our everyday life, were now drawing people from all over the world. The town that had been my quiet refuge was now filled with new faces and voices, and with them, a new energy that I never expected to witness in my lifetime.

Now at 76, I reflect on the changes. There’s a mix of pride and sadness as I watch the tourists swarm the town. The peace of Nazaré has been replaced by the energy of something new. Some locals grumble about the mess and noise, but they accept it, knowing the money is good for the town. I still live here, overlooking the sea, camera in hand, watching the waves roll in, unchanged despite everything else. The sea is still my constant, and in its timeless rhythm, I find the balance between the past I knew and the present I’ve come to accept.

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Djamila Saidi